Abstract
The addition of different active substances in cosmetics, e.g. vitamins and their derivatives, has been quite frequent. In this
way, it is fundamental to evaluate the stability and efficacy of cosmetic formulations containing these ingredients. The
objective of this work was to evaluate the physical stability and the clinical efficacy of moisturizing cosmetic formulations
based on panthenol, and containing ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and α-tocopherol acetate. Formulations were developed
with panthenol (FA), panthenol and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and α-tocopherol acetate (FBC). The latter was submitted
to rheological behavior analysis and all were characterized as stable. Next, they were subjectively and objectively
analyzed for clinical efficacy in 25 volunteers. Sensory evaluation and biophysical and skin imaging techniques were used
to measure stratum corneum water content, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and skin microrelief. These were carried
out before application of the formulations and then after 3 hours. The formulations studied showed acceptable stability
according to the physical aspects under consideration. In the clinical efficacy studies, both formulations significantly
improved skin hydration and reduced TEWL. There was also improvement in skin microrelief but these results were not
statistically significant. FBC received higher scores than FAin the sensory analysis as there was a significant improvement
in the skin's smoothness, besides being preferred in purchase intent.
Citation
ID:
95817
Ref Key:
capitani2018stabilityjournal